Sustenance

Most Rwandans eat to live, as evidenced by the majority of full-grown men with waist measurements less than 28 inches. In fact, extra padding, regardless of whether you are male or female is revered here. “I see that you have gained weight!” or “My, you are fat!” are compliments in this culture. It does allow some of us Americans to be more comfortable in our own skin. :)

The team has been living in Kigali, the capital city in the heart of Rwanda, for the past 3 weeks. This week we traveled northwest, near the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo, adjacent to Volcano National Park, home of the last wild population of the mountain gorilla. We traversed the countryside for 100 miles, dodging cavernous potholes and the ever present march of humanity up and down the mountains. And “yes”, to answer the question for those of you who know me well, I have not gotten used to the unattended, 2-3 year-old children and distracted rowdy schoolboys near or in the road as we pass them at highway speed. I am convinced it is my ever-diligent, telepathic signals that keep them riveted to the shoulder and my persistent, instinctive gasps, which keep the driver aware of their intentions to run under our wheels, that none have been lost.

It was evident on our trip that the rich volcanic soil sustains a higher biomass than around Kigali but, food variety is still nominal and abundance still minimal. At FAWE boarding school for girls, the food is enthusiastically endorsed as “very good” by every single girl I have asked. The girl’s eat unembellished, cooked corn gruel (a watery porridge) for breakfast. One of our readers has told us that this is the only thing the “poor” eat. Corn is low in the amino acid lysine and needs to be complimented with green peas or beans to be a complete protein. Thus, a child of ~ 30 lbs. would be 18% deficient in protein and additionally, not able to meet caloric needs on this diet because 3.5 lbs of gruel a day would be required for sustenance, an amount physically impossible to eat even if you had it. The average woman in Rwanda bears 10 children.

At lunch we join the teachers for a meal of rice and beans, sometimes cooked with greens, and often either with potatoes or plantains (a large banana that is boiled when it is green). There is no added butter and a scant amount of salt but I enjoy this simple meal…except for the day there was an abundant amount of gritty soil mixed with the beans. We all smile and bore up while crunching through lunch. FAWE grows their own potatoes and all of the girls, unless they are second-term senior 6 (equivalent of high school seniors), take turns performing KP duty by scrubbing and peeling even though they only get potatoes with their lunch on Thursdays. The Rwandan small Irish-type spuds are delicious boiled or fried. Their white-fleshed sweet potatoes (which we often get on Fridays) are dryer and starchier than ours and require some work to swallow. The quality of cooked plantain varies and must be an acquired taste but the teachers seem to relish the addition judging from the quantity they pile onto their plate. This meal is replicated for dinner seven days a week. Sundays the girls get some meat, still mixed with bones, fat and gristle, cooked with the beans. When they have told me about the meat on Sundays their eyes and smiles tell me that this meal is special. Eating this repetitive weekly diet is apparently what is considered the way the upper middle class eats.

Harvard, paparazzi of our group, snooped around and found out what/who produces this food three times a day for over 700 people at FAWE. Four vats are tended by wood-chopping men and fire-stoking women, who are managed by the "storekeeper” named Alain who reads regularly with Caleb. Add 300 edited Women carry the hot food to the dining areas in large silver bowls and then follow with water. At the end of one meal, ingredients are reloaded into the vats to begin the cooking process for the next meal.



We have a similar type meal, with addition of at least fruit, prepared by our cook a couple times a week in the evening. Savory beans cooked with turmeric, coriander, oregano and tomato paste are served over white rice. I plan to make this a regular part of the menu in the Townsend household when we return, not only for the health benefits but also for the satisfaction of simplicity. Ibibiryo ni byiza (This food is good!).